Mangia, Milan!

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Wed, 25 Sep 2013 - 09:37 GMT

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Wed, 25 Sep 2013 - 09:37 GMT

On your next visit to the fashion capital, take some time to celebrate the food culture
By Nabila Ismail
 In my multinational home, the Italian, Eritrean and Yemeni cultures shape my food ideology. Of these, Italy holds the top spot in my heart. I lived in Pavia, a small city near Milan, for six years, and if I had to sum up my love for Italian cuisine, I would be talking for hours or even days. The simplicity and the ingredients used to create top-notch meals are astonishing.Every Italian region has its specialties, be it a particular dish or or a common dish made several different ways. Milan’s cuisine is often overlooked by visitors seeking out museums and fashion boutiques, yet the city is enriched with dishes that are ingrained in family traditions. So every summer, I return to the city where I grew up with a list not of things to see, but to eat. Risotto  Risotto, risotto, risotto…how I love thee. This rice dish is easily made, making it a staple and life saver when Italians find themselves with last-minute guests. The risotto alla milanese defines the flavor and the character of the Lombardy capital, set apart from other regional versions by its gooey consistency and the saffron that gives it a distinctive yellow color. This dish is mainly eaten in winter accompanied by ossobucco (braised veal shanks). Another favorite of mine is risotto alla vogherese, from the city of Voghera. It looks similar to the Milanese, but with a sweeter, quirkier taste. Voghera’s secret? They use pumpkin instead of saffron. Ossobuco  Ossobuco is a Milanese specialty, starring veal shanks, vegetables and broth. It’s occasionally sprinkled with a mixed-herb gremolata and served with risotto alla milanese. The Milanesi have been enjoying ossobuco since the mid-1700s, and the recipe could well go back further. Ossobuco is often served with creamy polenta, which is essentially cooked cornmeal. Polenta is a popular winter food, as we swear it warms you up on the inside. Many Italian regions have their own versions of polenta dishes; in Milan and Lombardy at large, polenta is served with Gorgonzola cheese. Vitello Tonnato One of my favorite summer dishes is vitello tonnato: cold smoked veal in a creamy tuna sauce. This meal is the pride and joy of the dinner table on Ferragosto (Assumption Day), celebrated on August 15. Dolce (Dessert) After a traditional Milanese meal, you need to end with a bang. My ultimate dessert is pannettone. This sweet bread has many variations, often with nuts and candied fruits according to taste. Pannettone is mainly a Christmas treat, but I try to satisfy my undying love for it all year round.This cake-like bread first appeared in Milan around the 15th century, and Italians have introduced this holiday treat wherever they have migrated. Another favorite is Mialnese biscotti, the soft, lemony biscuits that make a delicious mid-morning or afternoon snack. Lombardy has in common at least one thing with the other regions in Italy: a love of the true flavors in diverse cooking ingredients. Simple, but all natural is surely a motto in most Italian kitchens. These are just my favorite dishes to eat in Milano whenever I get the chance to be there, so feel free to try other dishes. et When in Milan... You don’t have to follow an Italian home to get a good meal in Milan (although it couldn’t hurt). Our top restaurant picks: Trattoria Milanese, Viale Gorizia 30, Tel: 02-835-7670, www.trattoriamilanese.it L’Angolo d’Abruzzo da Giannino, Via Rosolino Pilo 20, Tel: 02-2940-6526, www.langolodiabruzzo.it L’Osteria del Treno, Via San Gregorio 46, Tel: 02-670-0479, www.osteriadeltreno.it Alla Cucina delle Langhe, Corso Como 6, Tel: 02-655-4279, www.trattoriaallelanghe.com

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