Stalls serving fresh juice are common in Sudan… That was mango!-Madnomad Blog
CAIRO - 4 September 2017: When somebody enters Sudan from Ethiopia, he immediately notices the difference… The roads are empty of people and animals which makes driving a piece of cake. The landscape is not mountainous and the road consists of endless straight lines. That means we could ride longer in a day’s time, so we reached Khartoum in a couple of days.
Animal market in Omdurman- Madnomad Blog
Some say Khartoum is the Dubai of Africa. The last decade it’s booming and skyscrapers form the skyline. However, in places like Omdurman or Tuti Island, at the confluence of the White Nile and the Blue Nile, it feels like a large village. That was a great introduction for us in the Sudanese culture. It feels like a mesmerizing medley of Arabic and African culture. That was noticeable on the cuisine too… Everyday was a feast with shawarma (similar to gyros or döner kebab), falafel, grilled meat or beans! Fresh juice was available everywhere to cool us down.
Stalls serving fresh juice are common in Sudan… That was mango!-Madnomad Blog
Leaving the capital, we took the road heading north. We first visited a couple of Kushite temples in the ancient Kingdom of Meroë. That was my first sight of the grand temples dedicated to ancient Egyptian or Kushite gods. I was astonished by them and their isolation in the middle of the desert was only adding to the charm.
The Kushite temple in Naqa, part of the ancient Kingdom of Meroë, was dedicated to the Egyptian god Amun- Madnomad Blog
Most people link pyramids to Egypt but actually, many more pyramids have been found in Sudan! They were constructed there from 720 BC to 350 AD. They are not as grand as their Egyptian counterparts but their isolation is what makes them special. While the sun was getting lower on the horizon, we were exploring the Pyramids of Meroë without any other visitor on sight. Wild camping in the desert next to the pyramids was a memorable experience under the full moon’s light!
Pyramids were not built only in Egypt. Actually, many more have been found in Sudan, the most famous being in Meroë! Madnomad Blog
After admiring the old, colonial architecture of Atbara, we headed west leaving the Nile behind us for a while. The Holy Mountain of Sudan, Jebel Barkal, is situated in Karima.
The country’s most well-preserved pyramids are located there since the 3rd century BC.
The neighbouring village of El Kurru hosts some impressive ancient royal tombs. That was the best spot for us to wild camp on the riverbank and enjoy a peaceful night next to the Nile!
The ancient Tomb of King Tantamani in El Kurru -Madnomad Blog
We made a loop to visit Old Dongola, an abandoned settlement on a beautiful riverside spot which was inhabited from the 7th to the 14th century AD. Some pillars, mud brick mausoleums and houses are still standing on the sand. There was nobody around and that added to the feel of exploration in such a remote place!
The sandstorm had brought a lot of sand on the road to Old Dongola.-Madnomad Blog
We were hosted by a Sudanese family in the modern town of Dongola. They treated us like kings and when we tried to cause less troubles to them, the wife seriously said that according to the Sudanese culture, they must treat their guests with food, let them wash and offer them a good rest. They made us remember the hospitality of Asians…
Even when you ask for directions, you provoke the ancient hospitality traditions of Sudanese people. A hearty breakfast has to be provided on the field: pasta, potatoes, broad beans, tomato salad, bread, dates and tea.- Madnomad Blog
That was where Konstantina bid me farewell and made her way to Khartoum in order to fly back to Greece. I went on with my journey heading north to Kerma. That’s where the Western Deffufa is situated. It is considered one of the largest and oldest manmade structures in Africa! It used to be a mud brick temple on top of which ceremonies were held.
The Mausoleum of Sheikh Idris in the village of Quikkah- Madnomad Blog
I had heard about it but now I have no doubt… Sudanese make by far the most hospitable nation in Africa!- Madnomad Blog
The little used road through the desert soon took me to Wadi Halfa, a town close to the Egyptian border. Unfortunately, our visas did not allow us to stay more than two weeks in Sudan. However, we enjoyed a lot this country and the most important reason for this was its inhabitants. We were considering Guineans the most friendly nation in Africa but Sudanese set a whole new standard! I knew everything would be different and much harder once I would try to cross the border into Egypt but I had to keep riding…
This article was originally published by Madnomad
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