The Heart of Cairo

Three visually distinct buildings representing the many influences on the nation in the past 200 years anchor the square.Looming above all is the Mugammaa, the gloomy 1950s symbol of bureaucracy with its impromptu sidewalk market hawking knickknacks in the courtyard by the entrance. Across the street from the Mugammaa is the former main campus of the American University in Cairo (AUC), housed in a 1860s palace built by Khairy Pasha. The historic building has been converted into a cultural center with Ewart and Oriental halls, art galleries and the AUC Press Bookstore.

Across the square is the neoclassical Egyptian Museum with its European dome, park-like outdoor displays and the rather chaotic collections inside.

The European influence on Khedival Cairo is seen in at the Abdeen Palace Museum, designed in the 1800s by a French architect.The palace is easily accessible from the Mohamed Naguib metro stop; if you’re walking from Tahrir Square, Tahrir Street, Mohamed Mahmoud Street and Sheikh Rihan Street all lead directly to Abdeen Palace.

 The Museum of Islamic Art, just a few blocks further on Port Said Street’s Bab El-Khalq Square, walks the visitor through the architecture and decoration of Cairo’s nine Islamic dynasties.In Attaba Square, the Postal Museum showcases the history of Egyptian mail along with several stamp collections.

Near Tahrir, the real-life Yacoubian Building, made famous by Alaa El Aswany’s novel and Marwan Hamed’s film, is located on Talaat Harb Street.

The area in and around Champollion Street, off the square near the Egyptian Museum has become a haven for art galleries.Among them is Prince Said Halim’s Palace, a beautiful building with baroque architecture and a classical archway built in 1896 by designer Antonio Lasciac from imported Italian marble and stone. Also known as Champollion Palace, the building now houses a temporary art gallery.

Champollion Street is also the home of Mashrabia Gallery and Townhouse Gallery where you will always find interesting exhibitions and cultural events.

For bookworms, Talaat Harb is the place to be.Madbouly and Shorouk Bookstore are both in Talaat Harb Square. Lehnert and Landrock on Sherif Street offers not just books but also reprints of historic photos. Om El Donia on Talaat Harb Street is an eclectic store offering up handmade jewelry, bags and pottery, but they also hold book signings and sell a select collection of books. Just outside the Attaba metro station is the Ezbekeya book market, with more than 100 arabesque kiosks selling new and used books.

Deciding where to take a break Downtown can be difficult with the area’s wide range of eateries.For good low-budget local food we recommend Felfela on Hoda Shaarawi Street (with a takeaway around the corner on Talaat Harb Street) or Koshari al-Tahrir in Abdel Khaleq Tharwat Street. For drinks and a more upscale locale, hit the terrace at the Greek Club overlooking Talaat Harb Square (enter off Mahmoud Bassiouni). When it is open, Café Riche on Talaat Harb Street is a must-see.

Horrreya Bar in Bab El-Louq is the area’s iconic balady bar, while Odeon Palace Hotel (Abdel Hamid Said Street off Talaat Harb Street) with its charming rooftop bar offers an airier perch for an evening with friends.

 Now that you’re rejuvenated, it’s time to dance the night away in After Eight or Arabesque, both located on Qasr El-Nil Street.